If you are getting images that aren't quite sharp, you might profit from the camera's micro-adjustment. Typically, focus behavior can vary from lens to lens and from body to body.
For each AF lens, the latest Nikon cameras, like the Canons can memorize a slight front or back focus offset, which will be consistently applied to that lens whenever it's mounted Checking focus, and eventually changing the focus offset carries no risk; you can always revert to a zero offset.
There's a special contraption called LensAlign designed to help with focus adjustment, but I like the Moiré trick described by Komar's interference autofocus FAQ and or Derek Cooper's page which consists of locking your camera down on a tripod, aimed at an LCD display of a test image (linked from his site). Just remember that focus will be best when Moiré is maximal. You want a really ugly, angry LiveView display, not a smooth one. To make the focus even more accurate move the camera back a bit or zoom to wide while shooting the screen.
For each AF lens, the latest Nikon cameras, like the Canons can memorize a slight front or back focus offset, which will be consistently applied to that lens whenever it's mounted Checking focus, and eventually changing the focus offset carries no risk; you can always revert to a zero offset.
There's a special contraption called LensAlign designed to help with focus adjustment, but I like the Moiré trick described by Komar's interference autofocus FAQ and or Derek Cooper's page which consists of locking your camera down on a tripod, aimed at an LCD display of a test image (linked from his site). Just remember that focus will be best when Moiré is maximal. You want a really ugly, angry LiveView display, not a smooth one. To make the focus even more accurate move the camera back a bit or zoom to wide while shooting the screen.
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ReplyDeleteThanks, Edmund! Great find! Can't wait to test my lenses!
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